I am thinking of just taking in the car for servicing as one is due in 4k anyway. I am definitely concerned about coolant as well. I am not sure if you should be able to clearly see oil there. I topped it up with a litre of oil from BMW dealer. Regarding the engine oil, i did check the dipstick before topping up and it was towards the lower end. Only way i can describe it is when i am sat down on the driver seat it feels like i am sitting on a massaging chair on the lowest/intermittent setting maybe? I can definitely feel the vibration and i know it isn't normal as it never use to do it before. I should have described it better, when i say 'rough idle' I am not referring to the instrument gauge alone but the car in general. To be honest though i would be super anxious about the color of your coolant. The car service indicator is saying 4k before next service but not sure if this is oil/insp.1/insp.2? Has anyone here had similar issue? If not any idea what could possibly be causing these issues?Īlekos911 wrote:Please define rough idle.as I see nothing wrong with your idle in your video( except for the eml light) I hear no strange noises and the engine speed is stable and no oscillating. I have a feeling the independent dealer i bought the car from didn't actually service the car as he said he did. I am actually tempted to take the car in for proper servicing. I don't think the head gasket is blown else i think the temp indicator needle will point towards the red. Not sure if this is how it is suppose to be? The dip stick indicates the oil level is fine. So planning on flushing the coolant system. Did a quick coolant check and this is what it looks like now: Fast forward to yesterday now i am getting a lot of vibration during idle and check engine light comes on after few minutes. I let the engine run for couple of minutes only. I should have took her out for a quick spin right away but with all the snow i decided not to. So off i went to the dealer to pick up some top up oil. I got to my destination, switched her off and the engine oil light came up for few seconds. About couple of weeks ago, i took her out after a week or so of inactivity. However, after a little search here i just attributed it to the extreme cold weather.Ģ. So that was that, coolant light issue was fixed although i idid start seeing more white smoke/mist after the top up coming from the exhaust than usual. So bought some coolant from the dealer mixed it up with some de-ionised water from Tesco 50/50 mix. Coolant light came on in early Nov, so i did a quick search here and spoke to the local BMW dealer as well and the conclusion was it just needed coolant topping up. I didn't have any issues at all until November came around.ġ. However, he said he forgot to reset the service indicator, which was bit suspicious but i was too excited and too far home to actually start making a fuss about it. I bought her in August 10 and the independent dealer did say they did an oil service as well before i picked her up. The car is an 03 3.0 se with 42k on the clock. I left the car running for few more seconds and the engine light came on at which point i immediately turned car off. The car was in idle but i could feel the vibration throughout the car. As soon as i start the engine i could see that there was something wrong right away. After a little over a week of inactivity i decided to start her up yesterday. Redline MTL is good for manuals (generally), doublecheck it's the right viscosity spec -ĭo some googling to see if there's any history of fan blade failure w/ Z4's, there have been other bimmers that suffered fan blade problems - if you have things that far apart, that would be an easy time to swap in a new one if desired.Z4 rough idle followed by check engine lightįirst of Merry Christmas everyone!! Right the Z has been acting up a lot of late. If it's an auto, a trans flush on one that possibly never has been flushed runs the risk of loosening sludge & what not & killing the trans, so opting for that is kind of like poking at a hibernating bear if you leave it alone, maybe you don't have any problem. If it's a manual, a trans-fluid drain-&-refill probably wouldn't be a bad idea, same for the diff. stock radiator useful for parts reference also. I'd do an EMP/Stewart water pump, new expansion tank, etc. With 100k & unknown maintenance history, & plans for long-term ownership, I'd go for the comprehensive approach - Yes, the Zionsville radiators are pricey, but it should also outlive several o.e.
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